Test each pin on the ignition coil socket with positive probe and make sure you got 12v - 13v range (not 0v) or the LED lights up which means you had common anode wiring on the coils. Turn the ignition key ON and disable engine kill switch (I mean engine enabled position on the switch beside the throttle) Put the negative probe to the chassis or straight to the negative terminal on the battery if your probe cable long enough Select 20V range or just leave to auto range if your multimeter had this feature You need a multimeter or multi tester or 12v LED to test the ignition coil socket pins. This is wiring diagram for Multi-Cylinder EFI bikes, CDI may work and this is experimental. Negative cable? just connect it directly to the battery or the bolt on the bike frame (Ground)ĭon't forget to connect the switch relay! or it might not work Route positive (VCC) and clutch cables from the module under bike frame, make sure isn't pinched by seat.įor the positive input (VCC) I connect it to the blinker relay, because it goes directly to the ignition key and every motorcycle is different wiring so you should search the nearly power source from the ignition keyĪnd clutch cable (from the module) I connect it to the Clutch Relay and connect other cable from coil that has been unplugged from the coil to the other cable from the relay on the module then find the ignition coil.Īfter you found the coil, unplug 1 cable from the coil, then connect 1 cable from the relay on the module to the coil. don't tighten the cable or you won't be able to downshiftįirst thing is place the module under the seat and remove bolts from the tank, route the cables from the relay on the module under the tank, make sure isn't pinched by the tank and keep away from it. When routing the cable, give it a small excess of the cable or whatever it called. don't too sensitive or it might ruin your day (but for what I made the bypass switch?) You might need to reset the sensitivity when you test it on the road. (am I right?)Īnyway, for the placement of the switch, i mount it on the shift linkage rod and I fix it with Zip Ties after I set the sensitivityĪh, you need an LED (12v or whatsoever) to know where the sensitivity is, just connect the LED to the switch and begin setting the sensitivity. Any lubricating liquid will work fine.įor the spring holder, I used the steel bar and you can place the spring holder anywhere do you want, or just mount it on the bolt that near on the footrest.īut I'll mount it and use the spring holder under the footrestĪnd route the spring behind the pedal rod linkage. (Update) First things! You need to lubricate the brake switch, so it won't stuck if it's get wet and dry many times and keeps it smooth. You can try it if you want and don't forget to change the code. I don't use MOSFET because it cause problem last time, and I have no idea why. small 1K ohm Variable Resistor (some people call it trimpot or trimmer)įor the brake switch, I'm using switch for Honda Grand because it's cheap.Steel Bar for making the spring holder and brake switch.Rear Brake Switch with the spring or use Reed switch with magnet (easier to install and adjust).330 ohm to 1K ohm resistor needed for EFI (injection) bikes to eliminate check engine error!.150 ohm Resistor and 1 LED for indicator.Arduino Nano, or anything smaller than nano if you want.Schematic(READ THE SCHEMATIC MAYBE I FORGOT TO INCLUDE SOME PARTS).So here is the parts that you will need : OLD SCHEMATIC WAS REMOVED SOME PEOPLE HAVING TROUBLE WITH I2C LCD. READ THE SCHEMATIC FIRST, MAKE SURE YOU ARE NOT FOLLOWING WRONG SCHEMATIC.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |